Thursday, April 16, 2020

What Could Ever Be Wrong? Surviving the Crisis in Ireland

Today, like every day, I get up to thumb through the news. I read that more deaths due to Covid bring the total in the Republic of Ireland to 444. Over 12,500 cases have been identified. About 2,000 people have been hospitalised.

My thumb presses another icon. In my home of America, over 30,000 lives have been snuffed out due to the pandemic. 

I decide I can't look further. So I get to work.

Like many countries and people across the world, our village of Eyeries, as well as Beara Peninsula and the rest of the country, are under a government-issued Stay at Home order. Living here, it's easy to follow those guidelines because in many ways, I'm already isolated. Only 60 or so souls call Eyeries home. Castletownbere, 5 miles away, has a total population of less than 900, while only 6000 people live on Beara Peninsula. In the off-season, when tourists are absent (as they will for most of the year, I suspect), I can walk miles along the coast without meeting a soul. 

That said, life during Covid, even in the isolation of Eyeries, is marked by worrying disruption. So I maintain discipline to hold onto any sort of sanity. 

I write from 9AM until 1PM. The work - editing a novel that I will submit to a literary agent in the Fall - keeps my head full. For those hours, I think of nothing else except the story, and the words on the page, and which words don't work, and which ones do, and what I need to change or delete or add to tell the story in the best possible way. Hours can pass and I think of nothing else except the problems that plague the characters, and the world in which they live, and the conflicts they must endure. When I break I walk out back to take a breath, and for a moment all seems as it always was: a Spring day, the sun on my head, the distant island of Scarrif rising from the sea a few miles across Coulaugh Bay. 

Then I remember and get back to work so I can forget for awhile longer.

When I come up for air I think again. I feel sorry for so many of my friends back in the States. Politicians and the press - both sides of the division - war with words and pictures against each other, yet the stakes involve millions of lives. 

I think of our own government and press. Here, it seems easier. Ireland's total population is only 5 million or so: maybe that has something to do with it. Here, the government talks with one voice. I have not yet witnessed an Irish politician go after another to score political points. For that reason, perhaps, there is little confusion. We all know what to do and why. I have never heard a word uttered from anyone about any misunderstanding they might have about the advice and directives we have been given from the government. Most everyone is cooperating because we know the stakes are so high.

When I finish writing by closing the laptop, I might work in the garden. I'm painting the back of the house. I can't get more paint because the hardware stores are closed, so I stretch what I have. I concentrate on the brushstrokes that spread blue and white over walls and gates. I can forget with each brushstroke.   

When I finish for the day, I might take a walk with the Partner up through the village where we encounter few, and if we do, stand politely out of the way as we practice social distancing. We gab for a few stolen moments, glad to meet other human beings. Then we'll walk on, passing the closed pubs and the locked door of the village church, and I wonder for a moment about the people I know who I can't see right now: my cronies from the pub and the good mates I have there; the church choir I direct, many of the members older than me, and I say a quick prayer for their safety, and that we'll someday sing again. 

I think of my children and grandchildren in County Meath, and a father locked down in a Florida nursing home. But there is nothing I can do for any of them, not right now, except keep sane so I might see them, and as I think we amble down the hill again toward home.

Even later in the day, we may drive to Castletownbere to buy groceries and go to the chemist, which is still permitted. The visit is short; the once busy town almost deserted. We make our purchases and leave.

6PM. RTE is on the TV, minutes before the evening news, but before that, the Angelus. The devotional prayers play on both RTE radio and television, at Noon and again at six. While the Angelus is not unique to Ireland, the prayer has always resonated with me, even if I never prayed along with it. It resonates deeper with me today.

Sunset right now is about 8PM. After the news, I go outside to sit on the back deck and watch the sun go down. I'll pour a can of Guinness and, taking a sip, think that when things are back to normal I will never, ever again open a can of Guinness. I will always drink my pint in the pub as I always did before. I hope it won't be  too long until then. Canned Guinness is real shite.

The sun sets over a glittering Bay. As I watch it, for a moment I forget again. Then I'll remember and think, 

'How can anything, anywhere, be wrong on such a beautiful evening?'

Plenty, it seems. 


 2020 Edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland is out Now!

As I write this, the world's people are facing into the strongest headwinds we have experienced in our lifetimes. This tome will not help. But if it provide a bit of humor, a bit of knowledge, a way to sit back and forget what is  happening for a few minutes... then perhaps I am right to include it here. Find A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland, 2020 Edition, here

Sunday, March 29, 2020

A Little Light Bird Song to Make Ye Smile

There's not much to sing about here, or most places in the world. For obvious reasons. So we keep busy. In my case it means editing a novel (a heck of a lot of work), painting the back garden walls, trying not to obsess over the church choir I direct (wondering how the members are doing), and making sure The Partner is well.

But rather than extemporize about the present plight of nations and their people, how about a simple piece of joy? A friend of mine forwarded the following to me. I think you'll enjoy it as much as I did.

So without further fanfare, or even a bit of chirping, may I present the Bird Song Opera. 

Blessings to you all.

Tom

2020 Edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland is out Now!

As I write this, the world's people are facing into the strongest headwinds we have experienced in our lifetimes. This tome will not help. But if it provide a bit of humor, a bit of knowledge, a way to sit back and forget what is  happening for a few minutes... then perhaps I am right to include it here. Find A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland, 2020 Edition, here


Wednesday, March 18, 2020

A Ministerial Emergency Broadcast: Irish Style Leadership

Last night, Taoiseach Leo Varadkar made an emergency broadcast on local television.  The subject: Covid 19.

Though he is not my favorite politician, I was proud of the man. Forthright, measured, honest - a true leader. His words were filled with darkness, but also hope. He reflects the compassion and sensitivity I have long found in the people of this country.

If you're part of the Diaspora and have not seen his RTE broadcast, see the link below. 

His warnings were grim.  

  • The HSE, Ireland's health organization, anticipates up to 15,000 Covid 19 cases in Ireland
  • Ireland will experience more deaths
  • The country is on an emergency footing, and will action what the government thinks right to protect the nation
  • Economic conditions will continue to worsen. To support the vast number of people who will lose their jobs, as well as bolster health and social resources, Ireland will borrow billions of euro. The necessity to borrow, and the need to eventually repay it, will affect the Irish economy for generations
And yet, Varadkar came across as very much a human being. As he said, "Never have so many asked so few for so much." 

He is correct. And his words made us realize that we must all do our part.

We are fortunate to have a man of his character in office. I can think of other world politicians who could learn from his leadership and compassion.  

See his broadcast here

2020 Edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland is out Now!

As I write this, the world's people are facing into the strongest headwinds we have experienced in our lifetimes. This tome will not help. But if it provide a bit of humor, a bit of knowledge, a way to sit back and forget what is  happening for a few minutes... then perhaps I am right to include it here. Find A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland, 2020 Edition, here

Tuesday, March 17, 2020

Despite the World's Covid 19 Suffering, Happy Saint Patrick's Day to You All

It's been months since I've had time to write a post. I'm currently working on a novel, which is taking an inordinate amount of time. However, the present global situation calls for some thoughts.

Like many countries across the world, Ireland is also coming to a standstill. While this day, the 17th of March, is Saint Patrick's Day, the pubs are empty. Parades have been cancelled. The spread of this virus continues, with almost 250 people in Ireland now diagnosed with this horrible illness.

But Life Continues

Yet, it is still Saint Patrick's Day. To that end, let's celebrate the day of our national saint first with a little song, some Saint Patrick's Day Music to let you jig a bit.  If you're stuck in the house like I am, I hope this compilation adds a little joy. Wherever you are, I hope you and your family are safe. At the same time, I hope you can raise a glass to friendship and those you love, and perhaps toast all those things that are Irish. As my friends say, this too shall pass, and when it does Ireland will still be here.

2020 Edition of A Survivor's Guide to Ireland

Too, it being Saint Patrick's Day, and knowing the world must keep spinning 'round, you should know that the 2020 Edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland is now available.

If you're thinking of moving to Ireland like this Yank, this little tome might help. And though any plans you may have will have to be delayed, I pray your dreams will be intact when the crisis passes. To have a look at this Kindle version, visit the 2020 Edition webpage.

Stay safe. Bless you all. And a Happy Saint Patrick's Day wherever you might be.

Tom


Sunday, August 18, 2019

Berehaven Lodge Restaurant - Grilled to Perfection

As an American, I take grilling meals on an open fire very seriously. Back in 1982, when I moved here, few people understood the pleasures of throwing a steak on a BBQ. Ah, the aroma! The taste! The fun of standing near an open fire, beer in hand, hoping you're not burning that evening's steak or chicken or hamburger to cinders!

In those days I had to search high and low to purchase a BBQ. When, in 1984, I finally found one in Tesco - a local supermarket chain - I couldn't believe my luck. I didn't bat an eye at the fact I had to spend twice what it would have cost me in the States. Made no difference. Finally, I could grill my meat in style.  

Of course, my Irish neighbours thought I was out of my mind. "What's that pyre of smoke coming from Richards's place?" they'd ask. "He must've murdered someone and is getting rid of the evidence."

Possibly true, of course, but unlikely.

Fortunately for Irish people everywhere, the fine art of grilling meat over an open fire has become de rigueur. And nowhere is that more true than in Beara Peninsula's own Berehaven Lodge Restaurant.

Friday is the Day for Grilled Gastronomic Treats

Founded by owners Grace and Mark (Grace works front of house; Chef Mark handles the
Grace and Mark - fabulous people impassioned by food
cooking), the restaurant is open most days. On any other day except Friday, they stick to a standard menu (go here to have a view of what's on offer - everything is fresh; everything sourced locally; everything divine). 


Walk into the open, airy rooms - all freshly painted, I might add, courtesy of good friend Frank McQuaid - and get a friendly greeting you won't soon forget. Have a drink at the well stocked bar (the wine list is extensive and reasonably priced), sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride as you consider what to order.

Or if it's sunny and warm, have your meal on the recently expanded outdoor deck. Overlooking Bantry Bay, you can enjoy your sumptuous local crab claws while wondering which trawler, steaming down the sun-lit waters, caught 'em. And yes, the food at Berehaven is that local and that fresh. 

But - if you're very, very lucky, you'll arrive on a Friday. Friday is "Everything is Grilled" day, and the results are to die for.

Mark is South African and takes grilling even more seriously than I do. Working at a huge outdoor grill fired by local wood chunks and charcoal, the pleasure he takes in cooking for his guests is instantly transmitted to the food we eat. 

Just this past Friday, Gorgeous One and I finally had a chance to sample  the passion of Mark's fine art of grilling. And oh! It was beyond even my demanding American-grill-for-life palate. So let's get started!

From Start to Finish, a Taste of Heaven

Aisling and Gorgeous One
As we consider the extensive Friday Menu, Gorgeous One is instantly served a glass of Pinot Grigio by lovely Aisling, our waitress for the evening. Starters form an extensive list, making it difficult to choose. Open Fire Mussels? Fire Grilled Asparagus Spears? The Seafood Potjikos, a warmly spiced South African favourite? 

She decides on the Grilled King Scallops. Because I'm having fish for my main course, I choose the Chicken & Port Liver Pate. Both are (almost) beyond description.

"Look at these lovely little fellows!" Gorgeous One exhales as Aisling serves them up. Grilled to perfection by Mark, the scallops are presented on a long plate accompanied by crispy Parma Ham and an onion puree that is out of this world (I asked Grace and it turns out the onions are first grilled then pureed. I want that recipe!) 

I had to beg Gorgeous One for a scallop, almost losing a hand when I reached before asking permission.

The Pate was...honestly, it was the best pate I've had in an age. Served with pickled cucumber and apple chutney, I took real pleasure in forking the above onto sour dough bread, doing my best to make it all last as long as possible.  And no, Gorgeous One never had one bite.

The Main Dishes. Oh the main dishes! I must admit it took us awhile to choose because everything on offer sounded fabulous. Do we go for the fresh-out-of-the-sea Monkfish Parcels, or the 12oz Cowboy Steak? The local Castletownbere Black Sole, or the West Cork Summer Lamb Rump?  

At the end of it, Gorgeous One chose the 10oz Hereford Beef Ribeye Steak. I dived for the Surf n Turf: a 10oz, 40 day aged Hereford Fillet Steak accompanied by Grilled Prawns served with a bearnaise sauce. 

The steaks were grilled to perfection. Gorgeous One's Ribeye was the biggest sample of such a cut I've ever seen; the taste (and yes, she gave me a bite) a rich mouthful of wonder. My Fillet was as smooth as butter; the Prawns a reminder of how lucky we are to have such local shellfish available, right off the trawler. 

These succulent grilled delights were served up with a huge bowl of grilled veggies: corn on the cob, tomatoes, immense onion halves, and much more. All roasted over Mark's grill until pieces of heaven. 

We had so much we took some home. The next day, all of it ended up on my grill in the back garden of our Eyeries Village Home, allowing us to enjoy Mark and Grace's efforts twice.

We were so full following our grilled meal, dessert wasn't possible. 

The bill for all of the above worked out at just short of €90, excluding tip. And it was worth every last penny.

Book Early

The Friday Grill at Berehaven Lodge Restaurant has become a 'go to' celebration by locals
who enjoy Mark's passion. For that reason I suggest you book early (and often). 

Where is it? About 4 miles east of Castletownbere, County Cork, on the seaside of the main Glengarriff Road.

For more information, go to their website: https://www.berehavenlodge.com/dining-castletownbere.html, or phone: +353 27 71464.

Opening hours vary on the season that's in it. 


Want to learn more? A Survivor's Guide to Ireland 2019 edition is Now Available.

     This travel memoir of about 80,000 words follows this erst-while American who has lived in Ireland since 1982. If you want to know more about what you can do to get a work permit, get a job, buy a house, and otherwise live and enjoy life like the Irish, I hope you'll have a look at A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Happy Trail - Tom 


Monday, July 8, 2019

Eyeries County Cork: A Little Corner of Heaven

As I write, I gaze out the window at the beauty of Coulagh Bay. Its waters glisten in the late-morning light, framed by the Ring of Kerry to the north and Beara Peninsula's Mishkish Mountains to the south. 

Beyond, to the west, is Scarriff Island, rising like a magical whale, hiding the mysteries of the Skellig Islands from my view. Further west rests only the deep Atlantic, with Nova Scotia and Labrador the next stop. 

The view is captivating. Here, I have found peace within solitude. Here I have made fast friends. Here, I have finally learned what rural Ireland is all about.

Escaping the Big Smoke

For  almost 30 years I lived and worked in the Dublin area. For almost 20 of that, I made the daily commute from Navan in County Meath to my place of work in Dublin. When visitors to my new home in Eyeries ask me about the Dublin area, thinking it still an enclave of restful business practices, I can't believe their ignorance.

"Certainly it is not as crazy as my place of work in Chicago," an American visitor will state categorically. "Dublin is part of Ireland, after all. And Ireland - well the whole country is so, so...backward, isn't  it? Surely, it must be more sane than any American big city."

Ah the silliness of such comments. So I work to set the facts straight. City life in any Irish big city is just as crazed, just as mad busy, just as stressful, as working in any other large US or European country. "It could take me up to four hours a day to get to work and home again," I explain. "The traffic was a curse. Road rage common. We'd shake fists at each other, cursing like a navvy, such was a commuter's life to Dublin."

I'd have to point out that Ireland has changed drastically since the day I immigrated here in June 1982. Back then, when first setting foot on Irish soil, I couldn't afford a car. I couldn't afford a phone. I couldn't afford many of the items I took for granted back in the States. Commuting to my place of work 20 minutes south of Navan was a matter of sticking my thumb out and praying for a lift from some generous automobile owner. 

Back then, I was not alone. Many of us living in Ireland couldn't afford such things. 

But then it all changed. As I've previously written, Ireland's economy blasted off like an Apollo rocket bound for the Moon. As pay increased and money poured into  previously bare bank  accounts, we all bought things: cars, houses, phones, computers... the list was endless. It all fell apart in the 2008 recession, of course. But once again Ireland's economy has  blasted off into the stratosphere. 

And once again, life in much of Ireland has gone mad with the business of making money. Irish people sacrifice their lives just as many do across the world, spending hours every day in the coffined life of their automobiles. They work hard, save hard, take care of children and elder parents, and otherwise do everything they can to make good and safe lives.

But of course, in the process they've lost something. Perhaps it's the lack of time to look at the beauty of the life around them. I know what that's like. For years, I lived a similar life. I lost my soul in the process.

However, I abandoned that  world almost 10 years ago. Instead I moved to Eyeries. And here, I have once again found my soul.

A Village of Tranquility

Eyeries (historically spelt Irees or Iries, from Irish: na hAoraí) is a village and townland on the Beara Peninsula in County Cork, Ireland overlooking Coulagh Bay and the mouth of the Kenmare River in the south-west. It lies at the base of Maulin, which, at 2,044 feet (623 m), is the highest peak in the Slieve Miskish mountain range that forms part of the backbone of the peninsula. (https://latitude.to/articles-by-country/ie/ireland/104119/eyeries)

To say the village is isolated is to perhaps minimize its distant location from what many would define as civilized. 

Just over 60 souls live in the village. We are served by the friendly owners of only a few amenities: a restaurant. Two cafes.  Three shops. Two pubs (of  course). The Catholic Church. And that's about it.

Want to go shopping? If so, we  travel  four miles south to Castletownbere (the largest white fish deep water port around). If we want something a little more sophisticated than the Town SuperValu grocery store, we must travel to Kenmare, about 60k northwest. If we want a major shop, then it's to Killarney we go (an hour and 20 minutes from here), or Bantry (about an hour), or Cork City (just over two hours).  

I doubt Eyeries is for everyone. Many simply couldn't survive here because it does not have the 'amenities' most people take for granted. That said, I now know I'll never  live anywhere else. Why?  The beauty is staggering. And what matters in my world now rests either in my house, or right outside the  back door.

For instance: yesterday I decided I needed a break. I pulled on my hardy wet suit, climbed in the car, drove a mile south (yeah, I know. I should have walked) and went swimming at our local Strand. For a half hour I was surrounded by a world of wonder: jelly fish, pollack, mackerel. A few years ago I was joined by a local seal. 

Finished, I  stood on the shore and marveled at the life I now lead, and the miracle that had brought me here. No longer do I fight my way through traffic. No longer do I struggle to survive the rigors of a global economy. 

Instead, I breathe the solid sea air. I listen to the cry of seagulls. I watch  the sun setting, golden, beneath a far horizon.

And on those nights when I am especially lucky, I reach up to the glory of stars swimming in the sea above me; stars so close I think I might grasp a bunch in both hands.

Surely I am a lucky man  to have found this place. With any luck, I will stay here the rest of my life, my ashes finally scattered in Coulagh Bay, mixing with this tranquil bit of Ireland forevermore.

For more information on Eyeries, go to their website: https://eyeries.ie/all-about-eyeries

  Want to learn more? A Survivor's Guide to Ireland 2019 edition is Now Available.

     This travel memoir of about 80,000 words follows this erst-while American who has lived in Ireland since 1982. If you want to know more about what you can do to get a work permit, get a job, buy a house, and otherwise live and enjoy life like the Irish, I hope you'll have a look at A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Happy Trail - Tom 



How to Live and Work in Ireland - A Review of the Rules Allowing You to Work Here

A few years back, and having been badgered by many folks wanting to emigrate to this country, I wrote a summary of the Rules.  Since then, the badgering has continued. So I thought I'd best reprint the following for those holding tight to the dream of immigrating to this dear country.

Here you go:

If you're an American wanting to live and work in Ireland; if you're a UK resident desiring to maintain your EU residency following Brexit; if you're a non-EU citizen hoping to move to Ireland and make a living here, you need to understand the rules.

Below find (pretty much) everything you need to know on how to get a work permit and how you may qualify to work in, live in, and become a citizen of this marvelous country.

(This is re-printed from a previous post. To see it in its entirely, go here: http://survivingireland.blogspot.ie/2016/11/getting-job-and-living-in-ireland-trump.html)

The Rules
In general, visitors to Ireland are allowed to stay in this country for 90 days. During that time they are not allowed to work. To live and work here for a longer period, there are a number of rules and requirements:

·         For non-EU citizens: Ireland is a member of the European Union. Citizens of EU member states are legally entitled to work and live in Ireland. Non-EU nationals do not have this right and must instead jump through many hoops.

·         If you are a foreign, non-EU student and studying in Ireland on an approved course: you may take up casual work without an employment permit, but only a maximum of 20 hours per week.

·         Working holiday agreements: Ireland has reciprocal agreements with a number of other countries including the United States, allowing non-EU nationals to stay in Ireland for longer than 90 days and work here. To do so you must apply for a Working Holiday Authorization. For more information go to https://www.dfa.ie/travel/visas/working-holiday-visas/

·         If you have Irish ancestry: Ireland has a ‘grandfather’ law. That is, if you can prove that your parents or grandparents were Irish you have the right to Irish citizenship. With citizenship comes the right to live and work in Ireland and anywhere in the EU. For more information go to http://www.citizensinformation.ie/en/moving_country/irish_citizenship/

·         Employment permits: Ireland has 9 types of employment permits. Some allow non-EU nationals to work and live in Ireland: General Employment Permits are usually considered for occupations with an annual remuneration of €30,000 or more. Critical Skills Employment Permits are available in a number of categories. To apply, the prospective employee must have a job offer. Upon receiving a permit your family will usually be eligible to join you. Go to http://www.citizensinformation.ie/en/employment/migrant_workers/employment_permits/green_card_permits.html for more information.

·         Obtaining Irish citizenship through marriage: foreign nationals who are married to Irish citizens can apply for naturalization. For more information go to http://www.citizensinformation.ie/en/moving_country/irish_citizenship/becoming_an_irish_citizen_through_marriage.html

·         Obtaining residency through civil partnership: if you can prove you are in a long-term relationship with an Irish citizen, you are legally allowed to apply for long-term residency.

·         Retired and desiring to reside in Ireland: you may be granted permission to reside in Ireland for the longer-term if you can prove that you have: an annual income equal to €50,000 per annum and; savings equal to the cost of buying a home in Ireland and; comprehensive private Irish-based medical insurance. If you can prove that you will not become a burden to the state you can apply for longer-termed residency. For more information go to http://www.inis.gov.ie/en/INIS/Pages/non-eea-permission.

      Gaining long-term permission to live and work in Ireland if you are not an EU national is tough work but not impossible. If you haven’t been to Ireland make sure you visit first. Check out the place. See if you think you can fit in and survive in Ireland as I have. If your answer is yes, if you are determined and focused, you could well end up living the Irish dream just as I have. I wish you so much luck.

     Want to learn more? A Survivor's Guide to Ireland 2019 edition is Now Available.

     This travel memoir of about 80,000 words follows this erst-while American who has lived in Ireland since 1982. If you want to know more about what you can do to get a work permit, get a job, buy a house, and otherwise live and enjoy life like the Irish, I hope you'll have a look at A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Happy Trail - Tom