Drowning the Shamrock on Paddy's Day

For those of you not in the know, St. Patrick's Day is Ireland's equivalent of July 4th. Only without the national anthem or the nationalism. In Ireland, we don't get all soppy when waving the flag. We don't sing the Irish National Anthem in the middle of a parade. In fact the Irish Anthem, "Amhran na bhFiann" (go to YouTube for a great version: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV7lGmgFovM) isn't exactly conducive for such use. Unlike the US or UK national anthems, with their bold scoring and  rousing lyrics, the Irish Anthem is - well - gentle.

Play the Irish Anthem in a parade and the soft heart of its music and lyrics will be lost in the coughing roar of rusting tractors used to pull tiny floats created by locals for tuppence and flouting the benefits of the town's insurance company, or the raucous out-of-tune pipe and drum band that never quite gets the beat right, or the reams of kids crying to go home because it's cold and lashing rain and why would anyone in their right minds want to stand watching a boring old St Patrick's Day parade in the roaring rain anyway?

You see, it is always cold and rainy on St Patrick's Day. We count on that. The March sun might be blazing in the morning, but by the time the parade starts and as entire communities pour down main streets throughout Ireland to attend their local parade, dark thunderous clouds will have rolled in. The temperatures will plummet, the sleeting rain will set in, and we'll all be miserable. Kids' smiles will turn to tears and parents will desperately try to rescue the situation with a little gentle coaching as in, "Ah fer feck sake, Johnny. We came all the way down here to watch the parade. Now watch it or we're going home and you won't be allowed any Telly tonight." Which only results in the kids crying even harder.

Ah St. Patrick's Day. Honestly, you'd think it to be a time of misery. We've the weather to contend with, of course, but then there's the matter of Lent which contributes to everyone's general distress. If you're not Catholic, you might not know what Lent is. Most have possibly heard of Fat Tuesday made popular by the Mardi Gras. That day is one of feasting, knowing that we're going to be deprived of something or other for the next forty days. On Fat Tuesday in Ireland, everyone eats pancakes. Now these are not U.S. pancakes. Rather, they're Irish pancakes - skinny little things that might look a bit like crepes only they're not. The shops sell plastic bottles of inadequate Pancake Batter in the weeks coming up to Fat Tuesday. When poured, it turns out to be a watery mixture that doesn't come close to the hearty Bisquick pancakes that my mother used to make.

The Irish pour all sorts of stuff over them: jam, lemon juice, some sort of maple stuff that aspires to be maple syrup but isn't. Then they hoist them into their gobs, often hating the damned things, but it's tradition so what the heck and at least their stomachs are full.

Then the next day is Ash Wednesday and everyone troops down to the Church for Mass. They emerge an hour later with dark ashes in the shape of a cross dobbed onto their foreheads. It might be a blessing, but it's a desperate one because we all know that we're now staring 40 more days of penury in the face.

Penury is, of course, what you make of it. It's not like the old days when people had nothing to give up but were taunted by the Church to give up even more. Today, it's more of a reminder: Jesus suffered 40 days in the desert. So now it's your turn. The Church hands out cardboard Trocara boxes. These sit on coffee tables throughout the country. Irish folks everywhere throw spare change into them - change that many can now ill afford - and at the end of Lent the money is sent overseas to help those even less fortunate than the Irish in recession. We're also encouraged by the Church and tradition to give up something. Many give up their mother-in-law. Some give up cigarettes. But many more throw caution to the wind and give up what they hold most dear:

The dreaded drink.

So is it any wonder that parents across the country are so dour during the St Patrick's Day parade? Many are probably still suffering from the DTs and are close to madness due to Lent and abstinence.

BUT, and here's the thing. They're also cross due to anticipation. And what do they anticipate? Why Drowning the Shamrock on St Patrick's Day, of course. And here's how it works.

After the parade, everyone troops home. There, they'll sit down to dinner which consists of mashed potatoes with bacon and cabbage (another time honored St Pat's tradition) that's been on the boil for the past 20 hours and sits on the plate like some sort of appalling sludge. Then, with bellies full, and while it might be only 2 in the afternoon or so, they'll walk out the door and make their way to the local pub.

For reasons that I have never understood, Lent's fastings are shelved on St Paddy's Day. So it's no breach of abstinence to have a good few pints on the day. Which makes the day even more fun because we all behave rather like kids mitching from school for a free day off: we're all getting away with something. We take this break from dourness to make sure that we don't all go around the twist before the real end of Lent some three weeks hence.

So we'll walk through the rain to the Local and there we'll sit back and join in the revelry. We'll have a pint or two. A hot whiskey or maybe three. An Irish Coffee or maybe five. We'll sing songs and laugh and enjoy each other's company. And for a moment, we'll forget about being soaked to the skin at the parade, and of the Lenten fast that we've all endured, and the fact that it's still raining buckets outside and Spring isn't set to truly start for a good few weeks yet.

And having drunk what we've drunk, and at the end of the night, someone might yet break into a soft gentle version of the Irish Anthem. In the quiet warmth of the local, you can hear the warming words sung by Irish everywhere. Words that only now, on this day of nation's pride, can be fully appreciated.

Happy St Patrick's Day. And do yourself a favor: drown the Shamrock this coming 17th March, will ya? Before ya drive everyone around ya completely bonkers.

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2014 Kindle Edition Available Now

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Just Because the Irish Speak English Doesn't Mean You'll Understand Them

When I first came to Ireland oh so many years ago, I was told the locals spoke English. They do, of course. That happens when you've been occupied by your English-speaking neighbors for a few hundred years. Prior to that they only spoke Irish, one of the many dialects of the Gaelic language. If you come here, don't tell an Irish person that they speak Gaelic because they don't. They speak Irish. In Wales they speak Welsh. In Scotland they speak Scottish. These other languages also have a foundation based in Gaelic but put a Scot, a Welshman, and an Irishman in a room together, ask them to converse in their mother tongues, and they'll barely understand each other.  Which is why most of the time they'll all speak English.

English and Irish are, of course, the official languages of Ireland. And when I stepped off the plane back in 1982 I assumed that I'd have zero trouble conversing with anyone in the country. How wrong I was.

English Irish is different, or can be depending on the words they use, and if you're planning to move or visit here you'd best be warned of this fact. To whit: when I first moved here I was asked by my brother-in-law to accompany him to the local watering hole for a few pints. "Ah, it'll be mighty," he said. But I was busy that day and wasn't sure that I'd have the time. "Fer feck sake, cop on to yerself," he responded, now annoyed. "The craic will be ninety!"

As you might imagine I was somewhat baffled by his choice of words. What, after all, did he mean by 'cop on'? Why was he swearing at me with his apparently offensive use of the f-word? And why oh why would I ever want to get involved with someone who was telling me that they were involved with crack cocaine and providing me with the price, as if I might be remotely interested?

Calling the local gendarme briefly crossed my mind. But before taking such drastic action I decided to consult my born-and-bred Irish wife. "'Cop on' means to get a handle on things," she said with laughing eyes. "'Craic' means to have fun. 'Up to ninety' means that you'll have a brilliant time. And as to 'feck', well you'd better get used to it is all I can say."

What she meant, I think, was that I'd better learn to speak English the way the Irish do. I had to in order to survive. And if you come here you will too.

The Fun of Irish English

Oh, there are so many differences to Irish English, particularly compared to the American version. Some words the Irish have inherited from England. Others would seem to be unique to this country and the people born and raised here.

Do you need some aspirin? Don't ask for a Pharmacy, rather look for a Chemist. Looking to purchase some French Fries? Then ask for Chips. And if you're looking for Potato Chips, you're really searching for Crisps. 

What happens if someone calls you a Comical Genius like my father-in-law (God Bless him) used to call me? Don't take offence. Rather, recognize that they are bestowing a compliment on you: that you are clever and knowledgeable. But what happens if someone calls you 'Thick'? In that case they are indicating to all and sundry that you're a silly, stupid person, rather as in 'thick as a brick'. And if someone looks you in the eye and calls you a 'Wanker' then be prepared to defend yourself. 

Other Irish English words can cause confusion and even great embarrassment. Assume that you're at work and you happen to be male. A beautiful woman - perhaps your boss - saunters over to your desk searching desperately, urgently for something. Trying to be helpful you ask, "Good morning, Sandra. How can I help?" And she might reply, "Oh, Tom. I need a Rubber. Right now! Do you have one?" 

I warn you: do not assume that she's flirting or somehow hoping to lure you to the nearest closet for a bit of slap and tickle. React inappropriately to this assumed invitation and you might land in jail or be accused of sexual harassment. Her search for a 'Rubber' means, of course, that she is actually looking for an 'Eraser'. So cop on to yourself before you get into hot water. 

Other words can be just as potentially embarrassing. Don't ever tell people that you're using a 'Fanny Pack'. A 'Fanny' is the Irish description for the female genitalia. Is someone looking for a 'Dummy'? Do not assume that they think you stupid. Rather, they are searching for a Baby's Pacifier. Never ask a female friend to 'get your pants on'. 'Pants' are woman's underwear, not trousers.

And as to the f-word: many versions of it pepper local language. It is not meant to cause offence. Hardly! Rather, it is a method to denote great interest or to emphasize a particular point as in: "Ah the fecking fire has gone out!" Or "For feck's sake. Will the rain never end?" Or "Those fecking b*tards, they should have scored a goal an hour ago!" 

The f-word is part of the language here. Take offense at your peril. 

The list of sometimes confusing, sometimes embarrassing, but always interesting Irish English words goes on and on. If you're determined to come to Ireland perhaps its best to talk to someone who has lived here for a bit of linguistic direction. Or, and I'm advertising here, I've compiled a comprehensive list of commonly used Irish English words and phrases in the 2014 edition of my book A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Simply click here to go to my Author's page, then ramp down to the Kindle edition of the book. And at only $8.99 for this ebook version, it might save you a great deal of bother before coming here.

Ah go one. Buy one before you end up in the back-of-beyonds, searching for a knob when you should really be looking for a nixer. I'm told the book is Mighty Craic, and I hope you'll agree.

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2014 Kindle Edition Available Now

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Breath on My Neck in Newgrange

Many years  ago, back in 1991 to be exact, I had started writing my first Young Adult Novel, The Lost Scrolls of Newgrange. For those of you who have never heard of Newgrange you don't know what you're missing. This megalithic structure, over 5,000 years old (older than the Pyramids or Stonehenge in fact) was built back in Neolithic times. Approaching this ancient edifice, visitors could easily mistaken it for an extra-terrestrial vehicle which has accidentally plummeted to earth. Tons of rock and dirt have been heaped into a saucer-shaped structure. At the front, a wall of glittering quartz crystals lead the eye to a deep recess - what could well be (and perhaps is) an entrance to the Spirit World. Immense kerbstones, many decorated with intricately carved megalithic artwork that echos design patterns found in contemporary Irish art and  fairly recent Irish sweaters, form the base of this mystery.

Above the gloaming doorway, a roof-box has been constructed with amazing precision. On Winter's Solstice - the shortest day of the year - the rising sun perfectly aligns with this small entrance. As the sun breaks over the horizon watery sunlight filters through the roof-box, lighting the 19 meter long passageway behind it; at last penetrating the deepest recesses of the structure: an ancient cruciform chamber constructed at its very core. If you stop and think about it, that kind of engineering accuracy is astonishing when you consider that ancient contractors did not have the benefit of modern tools.

Nope. They had none of that. Instead, it appears that these good people first manually quarried the kerbstones, quartz, and other immense rocks from as far away as County Wicklow, a good 50 miles south. Somehow, they moved these monsters down to the Irish Sea, and then in all probability boarded them onto boats to be brought up to the River Boyne estuary (located in the town of Drogheda in County Louth). From there, they sailed down the Boyne - against the current it must be noted - to be finally deposited at Bru na Boinne, a  gentle but apparently strategic turn in the river. And then it was just a matter of building the darned thing. Easy peazy, if you happen to be constructing a child's toy. But this is no toy.

Today, visitors to Newgrange must first go to a wonderful Visitors' Centre located across the river but still quite near the monument. From there they are transported by bus to Newgrange itself. But back in 1991, back when I was researching that first book, it wasn't quite like that.

Instead, all you had to do was drive a car up to the monument, pay a few pence in admission to the Office of Public Works employee who shivered behind the thin walls of a wooden shed, and the place was pretty much yours. But for me, it was even better than that. When I told the lady minding the admissions shed that I was researching a book on Newgrange, she could not be more helpful.

"Now you just do what you need to do," she said. "Walk anywhere you want."  "Anywhere?" I asked. "Ah, fer God's sakes. Isn't that what I said? Just don't be falling off the thing because I don't need the bother."

I took her at her word. For the next two hours, I had complete access to one of mankind's engineering - and spiritual - triumphs. I of course walked completely around the structure, making notes of the fantastically sculpted kerbstones. Then I entered the monument. I'm not exactly the tallest of people, but even my short frame had to bend to avoid hitting the roof of the passageway. I walked up the rocky incline and into the chamber itself.

My eyes adjusted slowly to the poor light. Shadows shivered upon the stone walls, as did the nape of my neck. Here was a place made holy by people long ago, whose spirits would seem to still walk among these ancient works. Here, at my feet, engineers had knelt going about their trade. Their sweat and blood had created walls and ceilings which still stood over five-thousand years later. Here in this same space and only years later, the remains of local people were cremated, ash and broken bits of bone placed in small bowls for reasons that are still unknown. As sacrifice? In reverence? In hopes of an afterlife?

And though it was high summer, in my mind's eye I felt the cold of Winter Solstice and imagined a soft light causing the chamber to glow with the beckoning light of spring. And I felt those that had come so long before me grow even closer.

I wandered out of the chamber then, taking those ancient engineers with me. I walked up onto the very top of Newgrange and I know now that I am one of the very few who have had such a privilege. There, in the setting sun, I beheld the waters of the River Boyne below me glitter like galaxies of stars. And in the evening mist, I could imagine those ancient ones rolling the immense stones on great timbers up the hill from the river to the place where they would rest, and still do. I felt a kinship with those long ago people of Ireland. It was as if I could feel their breath upon my cheek. But that was probably only the summer breeze that blew so gently upon me.

Remembering back, I count myself lucky at the memory and of my life here. I know now, from my many walks around the country to so many ancient cathedrals and standing stones and castles and monasteries that I have never been alone in Ireland. Others walk with me as I breath in the timeless fragrance of the countryside. And I can't help but wonder still if on that occasion - on that special trip to Newgrange - those ancient engineers weren't with me.

The book as it turned out was a great success. Influenced, I'm sure, by the magic that I encountered on that day. Newgrange is still there. And I like to think that the spirits of those amazing engineers protect it to this day, inviting all to take part in the legacy that they so carefully constructed.

For more information on Newgrange, go to http://www.newgrange.com/ or simply Google 'Newgrange'. And while you're at it, why not just come over and experience it for yourself?

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

A Recipe for Successful Immigration

Throughout recent history the Irish have survived - and prospered - by emigrating and that process has been relentless. If statistics are to be believed, more than 100 million people located across the world can claim direct ancestry to this small country. It's an amazing figure when considering that the present population of Ireland is only 4.5 million.

The Irish were propelled to move abroad for any number of reasons.  The great Famine of the mid-nineteenth century motivated the Irish to move abroad due to tragic circumstance - starvation. Between 1845 and 1852, over a million people (10 percent of the population) starved to death. Another ten percent, intent on keeping body and soul together, shipped out to the four corners of the globe. This wave of Irish immigrants helped to build the infrastructure that formed the bedrock upon which our modern world has been constructed. From Canada and the United States to Britain, Australia, New Zealand and Brazil, the Irish pulled up their sleeves and got to work, and their sweat and blood yielded much of the mortar that continues to hold together the world's economic might.

Searching for opportunity, the Irish embraced emigration - like it or not - as a path to personal success. Even today, we bemoan the fate of thousands who have fled Ireland during the current economic disaster. But our loss is the world's gain. Irish energy and talent continues to pollinate the world stage, often helping to create opportunity not only for themselves but also for those whom they meet.

As an example, take a friend of mine: Brendan Cronin. Our friendship grew naturally from a chance meeting in Boston. I became fascinated with his story. While I had moved from the United States to Ireland, he had emigrated in the opposite direction but with many stops along the way. As I grew to know him, I realized that though we had taken very different paths, the story of our search for opportunity, and the struggles associated with immigration, were a common bond with which we both identified.

Born in County Mayo and raised during the stifling economic times of the 1960's, Brendan decided early in his life that he wanted to cook for a living which was decidedly not a popular choice among the farmers of the west counties. But that's exactly what he did. Having received a basic education in the fundamentals of cooking, but with few real opportunities at home, Brendan grasped opportunity by moving to Switzerland. And from there, his career took off.

In his memoir "Cheffin' - from Potatoes to Caviar" Brendan tells the tale of his global journeys, and of the people who influenced him and whom he influenced. In his book, we follow his career from the relative austerity of County Limerick hostels, to the elegant hotels of Switzerland, Africa and the Far East. We meet the people that he met - the famous and the infamous. We sweat with him behind the cookers of some of the world's great hotels and restaurants. We work elbow-to-elbow with him as he, in turn, works with an often zany collection of memorable staff, many having also journeyed thousands of miles in search of opportunity.

We also become part of Brendan's soul as he works hard to fit into the foreign lands which he must call home. He learns German and French because he must. He refines his culinary skills in order to survive and advance. When he finds himself moved into management, we watch as he uses his Irish generosity to compel a hodgepodge of restaurant workers coming from many different countries and ways of life to work together as a team in order to deliver up some of the world's finest foods.

And we feel his frustrations as he first struggles to fit in and learn his trade, and his final triumphs as he not only finds the beautiful woman who will become his wife, but also becomes the only Irish chef in history to attain the prestigious Swiss culinary title of 'Chef de Cuisine Diplome' - Swiss Master Chef.

This is a personal story of Irish immigration. In many ways, it reflects the challenges, opportunities, and triumphs faced by immigrants from any nation and throughout history. It is on one hand a sweeping, almost epic road story of one man's travels throughout Europe and the New World. But it is also an intimate and often humorous story of an Irish immigrant searching for his niche in life.

It is also a reflection of what most Irish hold most dear: kith, kin, and country. For despite his success, despite the fact that Brendan is now settled near Boston and teaches in one of America's most prestigious culinary schools, he wears his Irishness on his sleeve and his conversations are peppered with references to his Mayo home and his family whom he had to leave behind so many years ago, but whom he still visits at every opportunity.

Emigration is tough work. But it is also highly rewarding. Brendan Cronin's memoir "Cheffin' - from Potatoes to Caviar" deftly illustrates that journey. And it proves that with hard work and a little luck, emigration can be a recipe for personal success.

Brendan Cronin's Book "Cheffin' - from Potatoes to Caviar" is now available at Amazon in both print and Kindle eBook versions. Simply click on any of the links for more information or to purchase.

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Ireland's Economic Recovery Accelerates

The Irish are a solid lot. Even in the face of extreme economic hardship and negative sentiment we all tend to put a rather obtuse smile on our faces and do what we can to weather the storm. Mind you, after five years of recession, tax rises, falling income, high unemployment, and being told almost daily that worse is yet to come, we can't help but bitch occasionally about our situation.

But - and a big but - Ireland's prospects seem to be improving dramatically. At the end of last year - only days ago - Ireland regained economic sovereignty with the withdrawal of the so-called Troika of European banks that had propped up the country's cashflow requirements by lending us billions of euro. Late last week, Ireland's central bank went to the market to raise a few bucks all by itself. The result was tremendous: Irish bonds on offer were over-subscribed so much so that our central bank could have sold 3 to 4 times the amount that was on offer. Even more significantly, the demand for our bonds was so great that it pushed down interest rate borrowing costs to just over 3 percent. Not bad when you consider that when the country left the free market a few years back, borrowing costs were tipping 17 percent.

Even today, the Irish public received more good news: a survey of Ireland's business owners and managers found that a majority anticipate increased revenue and profit growth in the short-term. With any luck, this will also translate into increased employment over the next year.

It's about time we had some good news. For five years we've only had reasons to grouse. Today, Ireland's economy finally seems to be steaming back to recovery.

Prospects for Employment Improve

Many visitors to this blog (and believe it or not I've received over 36,000 page views since I started writing this) come here for one reason: to determine how they might get a job in this country. In fact, Job-related posts in Surviving Ireland receive by far the most visits.

So for those of you thinking of moving here and finding a job, there at last seems to be some positive news. But do keep in mind that Ireland's unemployment rate, while slowly falling, is still hovering around 12.5 percent. That means that some 300,000 Irish people are still looking for work, which presents some astounding competition. That said, if you desire to move here things really do seem to be picking up.

Industries seeing growth: if you're attempting to discover industry areas that offer opportunity, then check out this report: http://campus.ie/jobs/job-news/the-six-top-growth-industries-in-ireland-today. It reflects what I've written previously. But if you have skills in these areas, you are obviously more likely to find a position.

Turning on a dime: remember too that Ireland is a small, open economy. In bad times, the country's economic performance can plummet like a brick. But in good times, the reverse is also true: Ireland can rebound quickly. This is exactly what happened in the recession of 2001. The country turned around so quickly that it took most of us by surprise. And I suspect that this is what is going to happen this time.

If you're hoping to work in Ireland, now is the time to start to network. If based abroad, check out the wide range of employment websites devoted to Ireland simply by Googling Jobs in Ireland or any relevant subset (nursing jobs in Ireland, IT jobs in Ireland, etc). Make sure that you've polished your CV to highlight relevant skills and experience. Contact the relevant employer prospect. Then, if you're truly serious about this, get over here. The chances of landing employment over the Internet are small (mind you, anecdotal stories suggest that high in-demand skills such as the medical profession can indeed land employment without a face-to-face meeting.)

If you're serious about finding a job in Ireland, now would apparently be the time to really start looking. Good luck!

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Traveling to Ireland?

If So, Visit an Unspoiled Corner of the Country - the Beara Peninsula

Spectacular aftermath of gales along the Beara Way

How many people have I met (Americans in particular, for some reason) who dream of visiting Ireland. When I run into these folks (most often through the Internet of course), many ask the same questions: Where should I visit? When should I go? What's interesting?

When I virtually chat with these good people, I find that most are naturally influenced by what they've read and heard. So invariably, their possible itinerary leaves them stuck on the tourist trail, herded like cattle among the obvious destinations: Dublin, The Ring of Kerry, Galway, perhaps Cork City. While these locations have much to offer (Dublin can be fascinating, the Ring of Kerry spectacular though often loaded with tourists, Galway a fabulous city, and also the oldest chartered city in Ireland), they aren't for everyone. Which brings me to my point:

If you're considering a visit to Ireland in 2014, I hope you'll consider visiting the Beara Peninsula and Eyeries Village in particular.

The Beara is one of the best kept secrets in the country. Few know about it. Often, tourists (either from abroad or from Ireland) stumble upon this little corner of the world by complete accident. I know I did. About ten years ago, and looking to get away from it all, I visited Anam Cara, an Artists Retreat located about a mile from Eyeries, owned and managed by fellow American Sue Forbes-Booth. I stayed for a week to work on a screenplay. Struck by the overwhelming beauty of this area, I dreamed that one day I would live here. Now I do.

The Beara Peninsula is located way, way down in the far South West of County Cork. Bantry, the gateway to Beara and a wonderful seaside town, is at the far east of the area. Drive to Bantry (a 5 hour journey from Dublin by car, 2 hours from Cork), head due west, and you'll enter an area of magic.

Beara sticks out into the Atlantic like a lost finger pointing west. A series of high craggy hills forms a spine all the way down the peninsula. These great blocks of granite and basalt thrust up into the sky, their balding sacred forms blasted by wind and rain. In the summer, the Irish sun casts them in a golden glow of wonder. In winter, many are peaked with white blankets of snow. During all seasons, wisping fog can curl between valleys, turning them into ancient lands where the spirits of the long dead just might still wander.

But while the peaks of these hills are fantastic, it is the sea that makes the journey magical. Drive down the coastal road, still heading east toward Glengarrif and you'll behold the Wild Atlantic in all of its might. Islands dot the sea near the coast. And if you're lucky, a setting sun will transform the sea into sparkling diamonds.

Stop for a bit when you get to Glengarriff. Until recently, famed actress Maureen O'Hara called the place her home. If you have some time take a local boat out to Garinish island and walk in the magnificent gardens. Then grab a cup of tea and a bun, visit the many woolen shops you'll find there, climb back in the car and keep heading west.

Forty minutes or so later you'll reach Castletownbere, one of Ireland's largest fishing ports. Maybe stop for a meal or talk a walk along the pier and watch local fishermen off-load white fish catches from a row of huge trawlers. Finished with Castletownbere, keep going west. Stop in the Buddhist Centre (Dzogchen Beara) for an hour of meditation in stunning rooms that look directly out over the Atlantic, or have a cuppa in their wonderful tea room. When you're spiritually replenished, continue west: next stop Allihies. This village - one of the most westerly in the country, is home to an old copper mine. When the mine closed almost 100 years ago, many of the miners emigrated to Butte, Montana, not only helping America to become a powerhouse of industry, but also adding the distinctive cultural heritage of West Cork to the local melting pot of immigrants.

Allihies has one of the best beaches around, as well as some of the nicest pubs, many serving an amazing selection of local foods, in the area. So stop awhile and enjoy yourself.

Then proceed to what is, in my opinion, the crown jewel of the area: Eyeries Village. To get there, all you have to do is keep following the coastal road around the tip of the Beara. Stop for a minute as you drive over the rugged hills to look back on the breathtaking view of the Skellig Islands riding like tall ships on the Atlantic. Keep on driving and 15 minutes later you'll enter the village of Eyeries.

Eyeries Village is one of the best-kept secrets of the lot. The village, a picturesque collection of early-20th Century terraced houses all painted in a variety of pastels, is perched above Coulagh Bay like sanctuary. It is so pretty that Bord Failte (Ireland's tourism organization) uses photos of it in many of its brochures. And it is so clean that over the years Eyeries has won a variety of Tidy Town awards.

I live here, so I'm biased. But I'm convinced that there's magic in this place. When I walk down to the sea I could swear that older residents - now long gone - watch me with a mixture of approval and horror at an American blow-in.sauntering along. There's a tranquility here that I've found no where else. The breeze blowing gently onto the village carrying the musky smell of the sea with it. The occasional surprise of walking along the coast's Beara Way, turning a corner, and finding a seal swimming in the gentle waves. Yell to him and he'll return a stare of nasty contempt. In poor weather, sit in the local pub with a pint at your elbow, watching the Bay turned to broiling whitewater that smash waves against the rocky shore below, hurtling salt spray heavenwards.

And at night in clear weather, walk out into the back garden and gaze at the carpet of stars and the Milky Way that sweeps unobstructed and unperturbed above this coastal sanctuary.

If you're thinking of a visit to Ireland, I hope you'll consider the Beara Peninsula and Eyeries. It's a secret corner of Ireland that you're sure to enjoy. But please - don't tell any of your friends about it. Otherwise my local friends and neighbors will get annoyed at me because the secret of the area will no longer be a secret.

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

A Cracked Christmas in Ireland

John, Mary and Donkey looking for
a Christmas dig-out

Well sure now, and isn't it Christmas already? And we here in Ireland are hunkering down between the wind and rain, snow and hail to celebrate the Season. We're planning so many wonderful events - so much fun for all the family! And on Christmas day, we'll pop our Christmas Crackers with glee.

Except for Johnny and Mary, of course. 'Cause they've had to emigrate to Australia, God Bless 'em. Couldn't get a job when they'd been let go from the local factory. And this despite what the Irish Government had promised us all - because we'd seen the last of the Three Ghosts of Christmas Past (also called the Troika) the dreaded program of Austerity was supposed to be at an end. And even though Johnny and Mary pestered their local TD to death in hopes of landing new positions, their local politician was so busy attending Christmas parties that he never did get around to helping the poor couple. Instead, the bank that held their mortgage foreclosed, and they found themselves tossed out in the snow, forced to raise a few bucks with their Living Crib in the town square. Even the Donkey has been reduced to begging for a few carrots.

Least poor Johnny and Mary can take comfort in knowing they're not alone. So many Irish families are facing the same prospect come the New Year! And they'll all climb on the plane, bound for Australia or Canada or the United States, or wherever they might find opportunity, and celebrate Christmases for years to come in those far off places. And the rest of us, stuck here forever, will have to make due with Skype to share our Christmas dinners with them. But virtual Christmas dinners just aren't the same, are they?

Ah, but that's fine, we'll all make due. We'll trundle out to buy our Christmas presents for the kids and grandkids who remain here. But then, there's not much to spend. Not after the tax increases - the new property tax, the new Universal Social Tax, the increase in VAT, the upcoming Water Charges. We'll be reduced to giving the kids a used muppet or two purchased from the Euro Shop, and if they complain that Santa wasn't good enough for 'em, they'll just have to contact their local politician too.

Of course, not everyone will be practicing penury this Christmas. For instance, the directors of certain so-called charitable organizations have been caught out robbing the piggy bank despite the fact that we're funding them through our small donations and large financial contributions from the Government. Needless to say, those moneys come from us too because we're paying them in taxes. Ah, but when they got caught out for earning 200,000 euro and more we felt so sorry for them because they told us of the personal overheads they have to pay: the new house in Portugal with those stunning views of the sea, and the 2014 Jaguar that they're treating themselves to, to make certain that get from A to B in a flash.  But feck it, we'll pay for that too it seems, and it's no big deal. Even though we can barely keep coal in the fire and our transport has been reduced to a goat and cart. That's okay! We're delighted to pay!

This Christmas, we've decided to put up with it all. We'll ignore the bank big shots who never bothered to burn their bond holders when the banks failed, and instead left us poor Irish taxpayers holding the multi-billion euro bill. We'll turn a blind eye to the owners of now defunct construction companies who still

Ah the Christmas drink. And sure, what else is there to do?

managed to salt away a few million despite having ripped-off the country with their illegal mortgage deals, and are keeping it all anyway because they've declared themselves bankrupt and say they don't have a farthing. We'll forgive the Irish politicians who still have some of the largest pay packets in Europe despite the entire country going bankrupt. We'll even turn our backs on the Irish Health Service who can't seem to manage anything, and give huge salaries to unneeded administrators though they've cut the wages of nurses, doctors, and those that we need and trust to give us wonderful care.

Ah to hell with it all. The Country is all cracked, and we'll have a great Christmas anyway. And if all else fails, we'll do what we Irish have done for centuries. We'll wander down to the local and have a pint. After all, that's what Christmas is really for, isn't it?

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac.