Let There be Light at Winter's Solstice

Ireland's Newgrange Monument Welcomes Winter Solstice

Okay, I admit it. One of the things that gets on my wick here is winter and the lack of light. Sundown right now is at 4:30 PM. Sun-up is 8:43 AM. I get rather tired of bumping into things when I forget to turn on the lights in the house, and I bump into almost everything: the Christmas tree, the cat, the full mug of coffee that I just poured which invariably ends up all over my naked feet.

The good news of course is that today - right now - it's Winter's Solstice! The shortest day of the year which means of course that from  here on out the days can only get longer. Simple astronomical physics, right? For today, here in the land of darkness, we'll all go slightly dopey as we celebrate the fact that we've made it through another long winter's night, and can look forward to the coming spring: the longer days, the lengthy twilights at mid-summer ... the constant rain.

Of course, the Irish have been celebrating the end of darkness and the coming dawn of spring for millennia. All the way back to the construction of Newgrange, and longer than that, of course. Five thousand years ago, I gather that the locals up in County Meath got together and decided on a cold, dark, lonely winter's night, something had to be done about it all. I can hear them now:

Megalithic Irish Husband: "The bloody darkness, fer feck sake! I can't take it anymore. When's it going to start getting brighter?"
Megalithic Irish Wife: "You're asking me? How would I know. Stop complaining and do something about it."

So he did. He and a whole troop of other fella's of course. They got together and hauled tonnes and tonnes of rock from way down in County Wicklow, north up the Irish Sea, down the Boyne, to the bend in the river known as Newgrange. God alone knows how they did it, but did it they did. Then they probably took a breather and scratched their heads in unison.

Megalithic Irish Husband: "We're gonna build a clock. Something to tell us when the short days stop getting shorter and the long days are gonna get longer."
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So they did that too. Somehow they organized that great pile of rock so carefully - and without the aid of Google - into a Holy Show complete with Roof Box. When they were finally finished with the build, they must have waited for the next Winter Solstice with baited breath. Can you imagine if they'd screwed up the engineering? What if the Sun didn't come through that tiny hole as planned? They were hardly going to rearrange thousands of tonnes of rock to get things right, now were they?

So on that first Winter's Solstice, when the sun finally peaked above the horizon and flooded through that Roof Box to light the interior within, I'm sure there was quite a bit of back-patting and hand-shaking and self-congratulation. And I can hear the wife saying: "Well good on ya. Now if you're so clever what about a washing machine rather than these stupid rocks I have to use to get the stains out of yer leathers?"

Congratulations, Megalithic Engineers of Ireland. Your clock still works. On this shortest day of the year, it's great to know that at least something still works in Ireland.

(I see that author and comedian Colm Tobin has entitled his most recent tome Surviving Ireland. Colm, could ya not have thought of an original title fer yerself, fer feck sake? :) )

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2015 / 2016 Kindle Edition Now Available!
If this blog interests you, then you might want to know more about living and working in Ireland. Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland, moving to Ireland, working in Ireland? Do you want to understand what makes the Irish tick, how you can get a job here, and how to survive in this wonderful country? If so, consider purchasing the 2015 Kindle edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Over 11,000 have already done so! Now over 85,000 words long, this book could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the above links to purchase the new 2015 Kindle edition. You can also download free apps to read the Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Ireland: Still a Great Place to Live

It's 6 AM. I'm sitting in a hotel lobby near Dublin Airport. My father is flying in from Tampa (God bless him) and I'm up early to get some coffee into my system before fighting the traffic to the Arrivals Terminal. I'm talking to Dave, the night porter, and comparing notes. Dave has four kids. He's originally from Navan (where I lived for almost 30 years before escaping to Eyeries in West Cork). Dave is ruminating on his recent decision to move to County Cavan, 40 minutes or so up the road.

"Navan just isn't the same," he says. "It's filled with scumbags. It has too much crime. It's just not a good place to bring up kids anymore."  I can understand his sentiment. The growth of Navan, as well as all other bedroom communities around Dublin, is one of the many issues that propelled me out of the area like a scalded cat.

"What do you think of Cavan?" I ask, sipping my coffee. "Is it better for the kids?"

"Great schools," he responds as he gets ready to open up the hotel for early morning visitors. "Mind you, I love the States."

That catches my attention. "Have you been there?"  He nods. "Once. To Vegas. I loved it."  Me: "But would you live there? I mean, if you could do it, would you bring the kids and wife over and make a new life?"

That catches his attention. "Now I didn't say that, did I?" Dave replies. "Visiting is one thing. But leaving Ireland? Not on your life."

The Pull of Ireland
Since the beginning of the Great Recession in 2007 / 2008, thousands of Irish have had to immigrate to find new jobs and make a new life simply because Ireland was falling apart. Unemployment had surged, approaching 20 percent. The country was littered with ghost estates: new housing construction that had been halted because builders had run out of money. Entire families were being evicted from their homes because they couldn't pay their mortgages. In desperation, many fled to Australia, England, Canada, and the United States seeking a new start.

And yet... they did so reluctantly. They knew they were leaving behind a way of life that can rarely be found any more: people that care. Schools that teach kids how to read, write, and do 'rithmatic. Welcoming smiles of neighbours and friends. Pubs that do much more than serve a Pint but rather are the focus of many rural towns and villages.

In leaving they knew that they were leaving behind walks beneath soft Autumn rains and hikes along windswept ocean side trails. The coo of doves hidden in the branches of tall trees during mid-Summer. They would be abandoning their local GAA teams and the shouts and roars of disappointed Irish fans who watched as the Irish soccer team yet again crashed out of a European Final. They were leaving behind the Pull of Ireland - the magical magnetism of this country that is at the heart and soul of every person who has been born or lived here.

But - they're coming back. As the Irish economy recovers, these Irish immigrants, these stalwart thousands, are beginning to drift home in search of the spirit of Ireland that resides in their hearts. In talking with them, I find that they have enjoyed their time away. They enjoyed the humming city of Sydney and the frantic buzz of New York. They thrived and learned in Dubai. They put shoulders to the wheel of economies in Montreal, London, Berlin, and Madrid. But now many are coming home.

They come home to the open arms of their families. To the fine soft rain that descends to hug them on cool Autumn days. They come home to their mates who have waited for them by turf fires dotted around the country.  They come home to the wonder that is Ireland and to the recovering economy that can once again allow them to live here.

The Irish are on their way back home. They know that despite their travels, despite the trauma of the past few years, Ireland is still a great place to live.

They're coming home. And even if you're not Irish but are pulled here by the magnetism that is Ireland, now is the time to consider making Ireland your home too.

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2015 Kindle Edition Now Available!
If this blog interests you, then you might want to know more about living and working in Ireland. Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland, moving to Ireland, working in Ireland? Do you want to understand what makes the Irish tick, how you can get a job here, and how to survive in this wonderful country? If so, consider purchasing the 2015 Kindle edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Over 11,000 have already done so! Now over 85,000 words long, this book could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the above links to purchase the new 2015 Kindle edition. You can also download free apps to read the Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

2015 Kindle Edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland Now Available

Good morning all. And just a quick announcement: The 2015 Edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland has finally been launched.

Frankly, this should have been available back in April. However, a large project managed to eat into any available time. When I first published the original edition back in 2005 I had no idea that this would prove such a popular title. 11,000 copies in its various versions have now been sold.

The current 2015 edition includes new information on getting a job in Ireland, working in Ireland, industry trends, and what's happening here as the economy finally gets back on track. And as with past editions, it is filled with the anecdotes of this erstwhile Yank along a journey of survival in this country - sometimes successfully, sometimes not - over the course of the past 33 years.

Now that the major project mentioned above has been finished, and the 2015 edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland has at last been published, I'll be able to update this Blog with additional posts over the coming months. If you have any specific questions about traveling to, working in, or getting a job in Ireland - just let me know.

Slan!

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2015 Kindle Edition Now Available!
If this blog interests you, then you might want to know more about living and working in Ireland. Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland, moving to Ireland, working in Ireland? Do you want to understand what makes the Irish tick, how you can get a job here, and how to survive in this wonderful country? If so, consider purchasing the 2015 Kindle edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Over 11,000 have already done so! Now over 85,000 words long, this book could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the above links to purchase the new 2015 Kindle edition. You can also download free apps to read the Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Got a Language Proficiency? Get a Job in Ireland

New statistics reveal that Ireland's job market is continuing to rocket. Unemployment is scheduled to fall below 9 percent by the end of the year, while gross domestic product (GDP) will grow by up to 5.5 percent in 2015. Shrinking unemployment lines combined with continuing economic growth puts pressure on employers as they fight for qualified people to meet staff resource needs.

In short: if you're looking for a job in Ireland, now is a good time to do it.

Hot Sectors
Key sectors are showing incredible demand for qualified personnel:

1. Language skills - do you speak French, German, Russian, even Hebrew? Because Ireland acts as a services gateway to Europe (and the rest of the world) many companies expand by establishing customer-centric service centres here. If you're multi-lingual, you could find yourself supporting your employer by dealing directly with customers located in countries throughout the world, in their own language - and all from the comfort of your Irish-based desk.

2. ICT - information technology continues to show outstanding growth. It seems like every day, new companies are either setting up or are announcing expansion. Even more new organisations are being created to act as 3rd party suppliers to support larger businesses. If you have skills in cloud computing, mobile apps, gaming; if you're a savvy tech person or a great marketeer with a knowledge of this industry, you could well  be in high demand.

3. Finance - is showing burgeoning growth as financial institutions look to assess risk in an ever changing market place. You don't have to have a finance degree to take advantage of this opportunity, however. Tech, HR, marketing, sales, back-office administrators - all are being recruited to support growth in the financial services sector.

The Irish Times reports that 42 percent of Irish companies have increased headcounts since the start of the year. Employment growth among professionals is up 19 percent year-on-year. These figures prove what many here already know: if you have the right skills, Ireland is offering the opportunity.

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2015 Kindle Edition Now Available!
If this blog interests you, then you might want to know more about living and working in Ireland. Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland, moving to Ireland, working in Ireland? Do you want to understand what makes the Irish tick, how you can get a job here, and how to survive in this wonderful country? If so, consider purchasing the 2015 Kindle edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Over 11,000 have already done so! Now over 85,000 words long, this book could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the above links to purchase the new 2015 Kindle edition. You can also download free apps to read the Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Getting a Job in Ireland Easier as Irish Exports Hit Full Throttle

Irish exports grew 10 percent in 2014 to a record high of €18.6 billion, giving the current economic recovery some teeth and driving continued jobs growth. Exports are critical to the Irish economy because cash surpluses pouring into the country can be reinvested in continuing R&D, manufacturing, marketing, and related operating areas. Increased demand for products and services produced in Ireland drives employment in key sectors.

Taxes derived from export sales help to pay down the vast debt mountain the country acquired during the Great Recession. Increased government tax takes will also enable additional hiring of public sector personnel - from nurses to teachers to police - in coming months. Public sector employees lucky enough to still have jobs should also benefit from an increase in salaries, particularly among the lower paid, as they seek to claw back pay concessions made during the past 7 years as the government fought to reign in spending and meet EU and Troika demands.

Key Sectors
Ireland's indigenous software industry recorded the largest growth in exports. Surging sales is increasing demand for employees with a wide variety of IT skill-sets: from those with coding and product development skills to customer support personnel.

But other sectors are also seeing growth. Increased exports, driving higher tax revenues, will trigger increased employment in the public sector. Nurses, doctors, and other professionals within the healthcare sector are being actively recruited.

The construction industry is also - finally - seeing some light at the end of a dismally dark tunnel. Professionals as well as unskilled labourers are being recruited, though this sector remains patchy.

Retail and tourism is also showing significant growth. Ireland's tourism industry is benefiting from the strong dollar and weak euro. Retailers are finally seeing a recovery as discretionary spending recovers, if only marginally.

Urban Areas Showing Most Growth
Not all of Ireland is benefiting from employment growth. Urban areas - particularly Dublin and surrounding counties - are demonstrating rapid employment increases. Rural Ireland, at least at this time, continues to lag behind.

Those seeking jobs in Ireland should search first for opportunities in Urban locations including Dublin, Cork, Limerick and Galway.

As noted in past entries on this site, if you're thinking of moving to Ireland now is the time.

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2015 Kindle Edition Now Available!
If this blog interests you, then you might want to know more about living and working in Ireland. Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland, moving to Ireland, working in Ireland? Do you want to understand what makes the Irish tick, how you can get a job here, and how to survive in this wonderful country? If so, consider purchasing the 2015 Kindle edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Over 11,000 have already done so! Now over 85,000 words long, this book could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the above links to purchase the new 2015 Kindle edition. You can also download free apps to read the Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Irish Timekeeping and the Long Goodbye

It usually goes like this: I have a business appointment. We fixed it a week ago: I'm scheduled to meet a Suit in reception at a Killarney Hotel to discuss a possible contract. We agree on the time: 10 o'clock. In the morning, I confirm, just to make certain we're on the same page. I do that because in Ireland you can never be certain of such obvious certainties. And to be sure to be sure: The day before the meeting I phone her. Just to make sure she'll show up and that the time in my diary is correct. She is certain: Yes, that's right. Tomorrow. 10AM. The hotel reception.

Perfect. 

The next morning I get up at the crack of dawn. I shower. I brush my teeth. I get dressed. I leave at 0730 to make sure I have enough time. In Killarney, I search for parking eventually deciding on the train station, fighting the commuters for a parking space that are as scarce as hen's teeth. 

I look at the clock: 9:50. I rush through the rain and the front door  and into the hotel reception area, shaking water from my coat like a breed of annoyed water fowl. And finally, I relax. And wait. 

And wait. And look at my watch. And wait some more. And finally at 10:45, the Suit walks in looking fresh and completely nonplussed about keeping me waiting. The rain has stopped. I notice: she's as dry as a bone while I, on the other hand, could do with a full hour on Spin Cycle at the nearest laundromat. 

We have our meeting. Not once does she mention the fact that she'd kept me waiting for forty-five minutes. Or offer an explanation. Or otherwise acknowledge the fact that for those long minutes, I'd felt like an utter prick as I sat soaking in the Reception area being glowered at by a hotel manager who obviously had nothing better to do with his day. And I can't stand it.

The following statement is an humongous generalization but I'll make it anyway: The Irish are lousy timekeepers.

Tell a person you'll meet them at 9 and they'll be there at 9:30. Decide to beat them to the punch by arriving at 9:30 and they won't show up 'til 10. And despite their tardiness, most will never ever acknowledge your annoyance by offering a simple apology. Or an explanation. Even if they had to make one up. Even if they had to say, "I'm sorry I'm late. My dog went after the postman who ended up climbing a tree and I had to phone the fire brigade to get it all sorted. Then I had to persuade the postman not to sue and then gave him a cup of tea and showed him cute pictures of my daughter's First Communion in order to further distract him. So you see, my tardiness was unavoidable."  At least if they'd lie I could find some sort of comfort in it.

If you move here, if you visit here, if you decide to find employment here, be warned: many Irish treat time as some sort of continually moving, constantly changing shadow that can be formed and reformed to match their own purposes or sense of convenience. Time is not a given. Rather, it is a variable that is often treated with utter disdain.

Which is not to say that you should be late. On the contrary! Should you be tardy for a meeting and if you have my brand of luck, you'll find that for the first time in a Millennia, the object of your meeting will - of course - be on time. And you, you poor fool, will be late. Which will put you on the back foot. Off balance, you'll probably never recover. And they? The Irish? They will take your lateness as an insult even though, had the roles been reversed, they would have kept you waiting possibly until hell froze over. 

So take it from me, even though the Irishman or Irishwoman will invariably be late, don't count on it. They'll make it their business to be on time at the very moment you need them to be late - and they'll do that just to play the mick with you. 

I'm not sure what it is about the Irish that makes timekeeping such a challenge to many of them. I know they understand how to tell time. Most Irish have graduated from college or university. Many have advanced degrees. I'm certain that timekeeping - and reading a clock - was part of the curriculum. So it's not that. Nor is it any attempt at consciously making a slight toward you. It's just - well, time for many just isn't as important here as it is elsewhere. It's a cultural thing. But as an American, and despite living here for as long as I have, I still can't get my head around it. Perhaps it's because back when I was a kid, being late was considered a crime. Tardiness could be met by loud yelling followed by hours of grumbling and the back of my father's hand. I learned early on not to be late. But in Ireland that simple lesson was turned on its head.

But if being late isn't bad enough, then there is the Irish Long Goodbye. Which is another example of timekeeping that I simply have never been able to handle.

The Irish Long Goodbye works like this: suppose you are sitting at home. It is, say, 7 PM. You've decided to go out to meet friends in an hour. But then: a knock at the front door. An acquaintance has just invited himself over for a cup of tea. Despite the pending appointment you're delighted to see him and as you boil the kettle up explain that you're meeting people in a few minute's time and make it clear: Time is an Issue on this occasion.

So you drink the tea. At 7:45 you look at your watch. You need to get ready. And explain that to your acquaintance. The acquaintance is, of course, in mid-flight on a discussion of the local priest, the publican, and the young woman down the road. While it's interesting perhaps, you still have to go. But the acquaintance keeps talking and helps themselves to another cup of tea. 

At 7:55, they say Goodbye. For the first time. The acquaintance gets up from the couch which has become a fortress. They've been hiding behind the parapets of pillows, a defensive structure that has effectively protected their dialogue. However, they'll at last stand, gabbing now about the upcoming Cheltenham Races and  who's favorite for the day. They'll put on their coat but not button it. The conversation has turned to the new village footpaths that the council is pouring and the fact that the construction means that no one can drive through the village without endangering dogs, tourists, and old people. 

You glance at your watch. It is now 8:10. You're late and you still have not changed. But still, the eternal Goodbye continues. You look again at your watch, harder this time. The acquaintance realizes that you may be under pressure. Finally, they acknowledge that it's time to be going and head toward the door.

But it's not done yet, this Goodbye of theirs. They stand at the door, back to it, making it impossible for you to get to it. To open it. To usher them out. Now they're talking about their grandmother who is in hospital and how she's 95 and on life support but is still as mentally sharp as a carving knife. And it's a wonder that she's lived this long but with God's help she'll see out her Century.

And just as you're thinking of using Grandma's sharp carving knife to cut your own throat, the acquaintance will finally, finally open the door. They'll step out into the night. Then they'll turn. And if luck has it, they'll keep you there for another ten minutes talking this time of the weather and the fact that the rain has stayed off and isn't it a lovely night for a walk and perhaps that's what they'll do now.

You at this point have blood in your eyes. Your BP is somewhere in the stratosphere. You know that your friends are parked in the pub, on their third pint, disappointed that you have not shown up. And finally, your acquaintance will look at his watch. "Bless the Lord, look at the time! You've kept me here long enough. Now I'd best dash before you start talking even more foolishness."

And at last they walk off, swallowed by the night. And you know that you've been victim to the Irish Long Goodbye. And of course, it's all your fault. 

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2014 Kindle Edition Available Now

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Ireland Unemployment Rate at 6 Year Low

Good news folks. For those readers aspiring to find employment in Ireland, recent economic recovery is driving jobs growth resulting in an encouraging drop in unemployment. Recently, Ireland's CSO (Central Statistics Office) reported the Irish unemployment rate at 10.5 percent. This represents yet another fall in unemployment since its high of over 17 percent at the height of the Great Recession. Davy Stockbrokers also forecasts that Ireland's unemployment rate could fall as low as 7 percent within 2 years.

What's Driving Jobs Growth?
Economic activity is continuing to climb. Davy's also reports that GDP growth could come close to topping 5 percent in the last fiscal year (2014). 2015 and 2016 GDP growth rates could inch toward 4 percent per year, despite the continuing economic problems in the rest of the Euro Zone, including Germany (which is currently seeing a contraction in its economic outlook).

The growth in Ireland's economy seems to be driven by sustainable activity, in particular exports. As Davy's explains, "...we have revised up our forecasts (due to) Ireland's strong export performance. The ICT (Information Computing Technology) services sector, pharmaceutical companies, and indigenous manufacturers are all seeing output expand at a rapid rate.... Our forecasts mean Irish GDP will reach its 2007 pre-recession peak in 2015;one year earlier than we previously expected."

The weakness of the euro against other currencies including the US dollar means that many export markets are getting more bang for their buck: those currencies buy more Irish goods, which are traded in euro. This isn't good news for other economies but it is helping to consolidate Ireland's economic recovery.

In addition to higher exports (which are creating Irish-based jobs), other sectors are recovering. Ireland's consumer spending is at last beginning to rebound. Despite higher taxation, disposable income is rising if only incrementally. Subsequent spending on everything from new cars to restaurant meals is finally increasing.

The government has also begun to hire to fill jobs in the public sector. Nurses, doctors, teachers, police and other public servant positions are once again being filled.

Tourism is also on its way back driven mainly be an increase in visitors from the U.S. Hotel occupancy across the country is now higher than its been in years.

Boding Well for the Future
Ireland still has much to achieve if it is to fully recover from the recent economic crisis. National debt continues at an all time high. Expenditures outpaces tax revenues, meaning that the Irish government must continue to borrow to meet daily overheads.

But the country is on its way back. As of this writing, Ireland's economy is growing faster than any other country in the EU. If you are considering a move to Ireland and want to find a job, then now is the time to begin your preparations.

A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland 2014 Kindle Edition Available Now

Want to learn more about living in Ireland? Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland or moving to Ireland? If so, you might consider the purchase of the 2014 Kindle ebook edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Now 80,000+ words long, and having sold over 10,000 copies in its various editions, it could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the links above to purchase this new Kindle version. You can also download various free aps to read this Kindle version on any PC or Mac. 

Ireland: In One Lifetime How the Tide Has Changed

I've lived in Ireland now for almost 33 years. With the advantage of hindsight, what I did not know when I moved here in 1982 but what I do now is that in only my lifetime - within the span of a single generation - Ireland would fundamentally change.

As I've said many times in the pages of this Blog, Ireland is no longer a twee little country sporting only carts and donkeys, coal fireplaces, and potholed narrow country lanes. It is no longer a land of poverty and ignorance. It is not a country of Leprechauns, pots of gold, or faeries. Yes, if you look hard enough you can find some of these. Even Leprechauns, I suspect, if you've drunk a belly full of porter. While such things aren't quite dead, most have been replaced by a resurgent Ireland that sports its modernity like a newly married groom. Even in the grips of astounding recession, this country is now renowned for its industry, relative wealth, and forward-looking thinking.

Much has changed since 1982. Many of those changes were wanted. Ireland was bloody poor when I moved here. And though few noticed because most of us were poor, it was heart-breaking to hear of families (including mine) who couldn't heat the house properly, couldn't eat properly, couldn't phone a relative, and couldn't take a Sunday drive simply due to the lack of a few bob. Today, most (but not all) do not want for such basics.

And yet....

I must admit that I find that I (like many Irish) miss a few things. Items or behaviours that have disappeared or changed completely because they've been washed away by the tsunami of the New Ireland. I thought I'd share a few of these with you. Perhaps it will give you a taste of what Ireland once was - of the simplicity that was to be found here.

• Milk Bottles and Un-homogenized Milk - today we go to the store and buy milk in large plastic or paper containers. And like most places it's all homogenized and most of it tastes the same. Back years ago when I came here, milk came to the door in bottles. Bottles were capped by a foil rapper. The milk wasn't homogenized. Instead, you could see the thick cream floating at the top. Shake if you wanted full milk. Skim the cream off if you wanted a treat. My but I miss the stuff.
  
• Open fires - are all but disappearing, replaced in many parts of the country by natural gas central heating. I am lucky to still have a real fire: an amazing Swedish stove that lights up like a rocket when I bother to fill the damned thing. But I still miss: the pungent smell mix of burning coal and wood blocks. The piles of turf that I used to add to it which made an ash as fine as snow. The slack - fine coal - that I'd mix with water and pour on top of the burning fire and which formed a thick cap, allowing the heat to last for hours. The crack and spark of the coal as it warmed the cockles of our hearts.
  
• The Pub / Grocery / Funeral Home - all mixed together like an unexpected smorgasbord. One of these could be found in most towns. Walk in and order a pint. Step a little down the bar and order tinned goods, bread, and maybe thick slices of cold ham. Step even further, and organize an entire funeral - funeral wreaths hung from walls; pamphlets describing the hearse were piled nearby. In such a place, you could eat, drink and die, God bless 'em.
  
• Old Money - we have euro now for our currency, just like much of Europe. But back when I moved over we had good old fashioned Irish Pounds and pence. Also called punts, they came in various colours and sizes to mark the various denominations. Back then, a pound would buy a few packs of cigarettes. Three or four pints. Five or six loaves of bread. God knows how many pints of milk. The coins were thick and solid. They jangled in pockets like miniature marching bands. As most say now, that was REAL money. Just don't ask me about the really old Irish money, before decimalization. It was before my time and thank God for that. I would never have bent my brain around the shillings, crowns, half-crowns, and all the rest.
  
• Fresh Bread - most towns had a local bakery. In Navan, it was Spicers. And the breads that they baked! I can smell the aroma even from the distance of the years. Fat wrapped pans. Brown and soda bread still warm from the ovens. All delivered directly to your door in the electric cart that they used for such purposes, carried by the smiling Spicers Man who would also relieve you of the few pence such items might cost. Today, we buy most of our bread at the grocery store, just like the rest of the world. And frankly, it just doesn't taste quite as good.
  
• Fish and Chips Wrapped in Newspaper - back then they'd wrap the fish and chips in yesterday's front pages. You could munch away and read the news at the same time. And the vinegar they'd splash over the chips somehow mixed with the newsprint for a taste that was out of this world. Today, of course, health and safety legislation has ruled against such practices. 'Tis a shame. I would rather take the risk of indigestion for that salty mix of so long ago.
  
• Zero  Security - we usually didn't lock the front door. No one else did either. We didn't because we didn't have to. Ireland had unusually low crime back then. And no one had much of value to steal. Things have changed of course. Now most people lock up their houses tighter than Fort Knox. They do because they have to.
  
• No Telephone - when I first moved here acquiring a telephone was virtually impossible. Few had them because a) a phone was so expensive (at the time, installation was equal to a month's wages for most people)  b) call costs were crippling and c) it could take almost a year to finally get a phone once the order - and monstrous deposit - was placed. So most people did without them. At the time, and as a young Yank, I was incensed. Me? With no Phone? Unheard of! But today I look back at the absence of a phone and almost delight at it. No calls. No one to bother you with crummy news. In fact, I wonder at the complexity that we have today and sometimes wish for those bygone years: no phones, no cell phones, no smart phones, computers, laptops, PCs, iPads... the world today is connected which is wonderful. But I sometimes wonder if by losing our isolation and time to contemplate, we haven't also lost something of ourselves.

The list, of course, goes on and on. But these are some that come to mind. Ireland continues to be a wonderful place. Certainly, where I now live in Eyeries, County Cork, continues to capture some of the joys of living in this country.

Though we now enjoy the wonders of a modern Ireland, I sometimes find that I miss those things that have passed on. A simplicity that's hard to find anymore. And a joy of living that far surpassed the material goods that most can acquire today.

Yes, that's what I miss most. The simplicity of older Ireland.

(Though I must admit: it's nice not to freeze anymore. It's nice to make a phone call when I want to. But by God, I still miss bottled milk.)

Moving to Dublin? There's Good News and Bad News

Recently I received a post from an American family who are considering a move to Ireland. They referred to an older 2009 post on this Blog that addressed (at least in part) what it's like to move to the Dublin area, where to live, what might be found there, and similar nuggets of wild fact.

Of course I can't find the post. So...I thought I'd address this area again and bring things up to date. And as usual, I have Good News and Bad News. But first...

The Good News: Such a Choice!
Dublin is by far Ireland's largest city. Almost a third of the citizenry now live in Dublin and its general environs. They do so for good reasons: most of the jobs are in the Dublin area. Following extensive investment, Dublin is - in general - a delightful place in which to live with high speed broadband, great access to the rest of the country and abroad via rail, bus, airplane and ferry, a heck of a lot do to - from theatre to museums, the Dublin Zoo to great walks through the Temple Bar area; from outstanding (though somewhat expensive) shopping and fine eateries, and a quick drive to the seashore or south to County Wicklow and its wonderfully extensive parks, waterfalls, and lakes - the area is a draw to both residents and visitors alike.

But if you're considering a move to the Dublin area take a look at the many options:

The City Centre - city living isn't for everyone but if you're determined to live like an Urban King then living in Dublin City Centre could be just your thing. Compared to many capitol cities in the world, Dublin has a rather small footprint, making much of it accessible by foot-power or bike. And you'll always find something fun to do. Take a walk up Grafton Street, the heart of city shopping, and spend your way to penury at the many shops while being comforted by the wild and wonderful buskers that line the street. Visit Bewleys for a cup of tea. Stroll along the Liffey River and people watch: tense business folks marching to their next meeting; young couples arm in arm taking a coffee in sheltered spots along the River making doe-eyes at each other; lawyers running into things with the next case in mind as they make their way to the Law Courts. Take in the National History Museum (it's still free at least for now), or walk up to the Dail - Ireland's seat of government and mad politicians - to express your views.

The Phoenix Park is also within walking distance (though a relatively long walk). As the largest city park in Europe, it is also home to the Irish president, the US Ambassador, and Dublin Zoo (not that I'm saying the president and Ambassador are monkeys - not at all, at all! The president in particular is one nice fella and someone that most are immensely proud of). Got a thirst in your mouth? Then have a cuppa either in the Zoo or at the wonderful Victorian Tea Rooms. And if that doesn't work stroll back into town for a pint at any number of local establishments. Hungry? Then walk into Temple Bar. Years ago when I first moved here the area (located right along the Liffey) was a run-down series of destitute warehouses. Today, it is a walking puzzle containing any number of fine restaurants and shops. But if you're not city-minded (yet still have to live near the city) where else might you consider?

Fortunately, the Dublin Area - including counties Dublin, Wicklow, Meath, and Louth - offer a wide range of options.

County Dublin - where to start? Try the town of Skerries just north of Dublin Airport. Or how about Portmarnack? Or Malahide? Or Howth? All of these communities offer quick access to the coast and many beaches; lovely tidy communities with restaurants and pubs; wonderful people and good schools... what's not to like? Or want to go to the south side of the city? Then why not Dun Laoghrie with its many stores and fine eateries.

Or County Wicklow - to the south of County Dublin is the Garden County named as such for good reason. Even though you may be only miles from the City Centre, you could be visiting an area known for its steep hills, dense forests, and exotic plants. If a visitor, make sure you go to Powerscourt and its waterfall and Glendalough and its outstanding vistas and lakes, and home to a 6th Century monastic 'city'. Want to live in Wicklow? Then try Bray, a delightful little town right on the coast.

Counties Meath and Louth - or perhaps you'd like to go north. These counties offer so very much! Louth, abutting the Irish Sea, has many communities that could be of interest. Drogheda, the county seat, is a larger urban area full of good shopping, restaurants, and right on the sea with good walks and quick access into Dublin. Or perhaps Bettystown, a smaller coastal village with its pretty church backing right up to the water.  And take a look at County Meath. Navan, home to the largest Zinc mine in Europe (or perhaps the world) is a bustling community. I lived there for years. Its shopping centre, local shops, and wide range of pubs and restaurants provides a wide choice. Walk along the River Boyne and take in some fresh air or get a license and throw your cast in for some of Ireland's best salmon fishing. Go 8 miles west and you're in Trim, a handsome smaller town with one of the oldest castles in all of Ireland (Mel Gibson visited when Braveheart was shot there), and take a delightful stroll again along the River Boyne, ending up at some of Ireland's best pubs.

I've only covered a few options above. But explore Ireland for yourself perhaps by Googling county maps, choosing an interesting sounding town name, and researching further. But now for...

The Bad News

Housing - whether renting or purchasing - is becoming increasingly expensive. Let me rephrase that: prices are rocketing skyward, particularly in Dublin and its commuter belt including many of the counties mentioned above. Why? The answer is, in part, simple. First, the country is finally coming out of recession. More jobs mean more money in people's pockets. Which in turn drives the pent-up demand as families who couldn't afford to buy seek to do so. Renting is just as bad: prices for a Dublin city apartment have gone nuts (see www.daft.ie for more information). The other factor is supply: during the recession few new houses and apartments were built. And it's going to take awhile for the construction industry - decimated during the past few years - to regain traction and meet the upward surge in demand.

Only recently, the Central Bank has passed new regulations regarding down payment requirements when purchasing. Prior to the recession, banks were lending purchasers 100 percent mortgages - or more. But it was announced only yesterday that now, first time buyers must come up with 10 percent of the purchase price up to just over 200,000 euro, with a sliding scale in excess of that. Other buyers must come up with 20 percent of the purchase price. Add to that down payment outlays for solicitors, stamp duty, and other costs, and depending on the house price, it's a hefty amount.

These new regulations could result in a number of changes: ever-rising home prices could cool a bit as demand is dampened. Which is good news for those with cash in their wallets who want to buy soon. But bad news of course for those who want to buy and simply can't come up with the bag full of cash they'll need to satisfy the new regulations.

Such is Ireland, as with many other places: good news and bad. But on the whole, the economy is a heck of a lot better than it has been since 2007 and the creeping disaster of recession that hurt so very many. If you're truly consider a move (or visit) to the greater Dublin area my advice is to take your time and hunt wisely.

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If this blog interests you, then you might want to know more about living and working in Ireland. Are you thinking of traveling to Ireland, moving to Ireland, working in Ireland? Do you want to understand what makes the Irish tick, how you can get a job here, and how to survive in this wonderful country? If so, consider purchasing the 2015 Kindle edition of A Survivor's Guide to Living in Ireland. Over 11,000 have already done so! Now over 85,000 words long, this book could make the perfect gift for those interested in this wonderful country. Simply click on any of the above links to purchase the new 2015 Kindle edition. You can also download free apps to read the Kindle version on any PC or Mac.